But if you’ve been waiting on purchasing the product here is your chance now to get it at almost 50% off, and yes, I said HALF PRICE. And then you can finally get your Xbox back up and running to its full potential instead of collecting dust and moping about why you can’t play your games.

Ok, so are you ready to finally get your xbox 360 repair guide? Here is what you do and you must follow these directions specifically to get the huge discount but don’t worry, its very simple.

Step 1
Visit this link : Xbox Repair Download

Step 2
Hit the Buy Now Button. Once payment is processed, you will receive access to download the ebook.

Step 3
Fix your Xbox and Start gaming again !

Let me know how fast you get your Xbox up and running.

I feel like somewhat of an expert on this subject now, following my own run-in with the 3 red lights on my own Xbox 360 a few weeks ago. And when you consider that as many as 35% of all Xbox 360s will fail at some point in their lives, there must be thousands more like me out there.

The reason I’m writing about it is that I think I may have stumbled onto something other people in my position may find very useful.

I was running a search on Google for the Xbox 360 3 red lights, and while I was sifting my way through the mostly unhelpful results, I found The Xbox 360 Red Light Fix Pro Gamer Edition. It immediately struck me as something different, mainly because the developers offered a guarantee that within 2 hours I would be able to get rid of the Xbox 360 3 red lights.

None of the other websites I investigated had such confidence, so I looked a little deeper.

I also noticed that The Xbox 360 Red Light Fix Pro Gamer Edition was accompanied by comprehensive video tutorials, which visually demonstrated every step of the fix to rid your Xbox 360 of those 3 red lights.
The more I read, the more convinced I became. So I tried it for myself. I probably wouldn’t have, but with the guarantee that it would work within 2 hours, what did I have to lose?

Anyway, I went for it, tried it, and guess what? Yep, my Xbox 360’s 3 red lights are history. And just like the developers of The Xbox 360 Red Light Fix Pro Gamer Edition promised, they were gone within 2 hours and I was back to my gaming.

When you consider the alternatives to The Xbox 360 Red Light Fix Pro Gamer Edition (performing dangerous self-fixes with soldering irons, waiting 8 weeks for Microsoft to return your console, etc.) the choice seems simple.

If you want to rid your Xbox 360 of those 3 red lights and be gaming again in less than two hours, I highly recommend you do just what I did – try The Xbox 360 Red Light Fix Pro Gamer Edition. If it doesn’t work, you have the guarantee to fall back on. Surely it’s worth a shot, when you consider the crappy alternatives. Click HERE to check them out!

Most people have a fair knowledge of how to apply thermal paste and proper procedure, so if you do most likely you can just skim by and see the illustrations for insight. To the other folks who have no idea what this is or getting into this is for you. Initially this is what your XBOX 360 thermal paste under those fancy heatsinks appear to look like some one took some paste, put a fat glob on the GPU, yet hardly enough of the XCPU, threw the heatsinks on their and passed it on to the next warehouse employee. My guess is the heat is probably not at its peak cooling with this procedure. Although the thermal compound for this is far beyond better that the XBOX1, it goes through a manufacturing plant so most likely its a victim of quantity vs quality. I’m not hear to act like this is going to solve anyone who trying to sue m$ problems, but as a hobbiest upgrade it should help knock down a couple degrees off the 360s global warming campaign.

First thing I want to mention although this is not a absolutely difficult upgrade, the clamps of the 360 can be a royal pain to take off and put back on, so proceed with caution and patience. Once your past the first hurdle heres what you have…

For this upgrade I used the following cooling products that can be purchase easily at newegg. Here are the links below, they are quite handy to have a round for any computer cooling upgrades.

ArctiClean Thermal Surface Remover – ArctiClean 1 Thermal Material Remover quickly emulsifies and dissolves the existing thermal grease or pad from the CPU and/or heatsink so that it can easily be removed with a clean cloth or paper towel. A few drops of ArctiClean 2 Thermal Surface Purifier and some gentle wiping then removes the remaining residue and inhibits flash corrosion on copper or aluminum.

Arctic Silver 5 – A unique high-density filling of micronized silver and enhanced thermally conductive ceramic particles provides superior level of performance and stability. Arctic Silver 5 is optimized for use between modern high-power CPUs and high performance heatsinks or water-cooling solutions.

As well if you have any type of business card, putty knife, etc… you will need to keep it in hand. Initially it is to remove the excess thermal paste residue left from the previous setting. Then afterwards to apply the Arctic Silver 5 compound. So lets get started with what we have.

Before setting the ArctiClean Thermal Paste Remover, you want to get as much of the leftover thermal compound off of the heatsink prior to replacing the new compound. To do so, I used a putty knife although a credit card or stirdy business card would do the trick. Definatly make sure you get as much gunk as you can off in the first run.

After you get the majority of the residue off from previous thermal paste, you now put drops of ArctiClean 1 on the spots that were unable to come off from the putty knife/credit card. Let it sit for a 30 seconds to a minute. This dissolves the existing thermal grease or pad from the CPU and/or heatsink so that it can easily be removed with a clean cloth or paper towel. Once you get as much that is able to come up off, make sure you use the ArctiClean 2 Thermal Surface Purifier and some gentle wiping to remove the remaining residue and inhibits flash corrosion on copper or aluminum. Heres what mine looked like after a few repeated steps.

Now that your heatsinks are clean, you are prepared to go advance to cleaning the CPU and GPU, which is alot easier that the XBOX1. Your pretty much going to apply the same method to your CPU and GPU as you did with the heat sinks. First I took my putty knife and edged the previous thermal compound from the corners.

Once you get this accomplished you are now ready to put on your ArctiClean 1 and let it set for 30 seconds to a minute. When you are ready to clean, get your Q-tips out to gently wipe the surface getting all the left over thermal paste up. Its very easy and pretty much should be done rather fast. Once you finished that step apply ArctiClean 2 Purifier to clean up any left over spots you may have overlooked. When you are finished your CPU should look clean as a whistle.

Now you are ready to apply Arctic Silver 5 compound to the CPU and GPU. Carefully apply no more than a rice grain size of thermal compound to your CPU and BOTH GPU cores. Take you a business card/credit card/putty knife and spread them out evenly till you get the result below. A small dab goes a long way believe me, you dont want to put to much on the chips or your defeating the process. If your feeling lucky, your welcome to apply the Arctic Silver 5 onto your GDDR3 RAM Chips as well, since the GPU heatsink rests on it as well.

Now you are able to apply your heatsinks and clamps back together, once again DO NOT use to much force to remove or apply your heatsink clamps for you may damage an important part to the 360 Motherboard. As well this should be no substitute to *fix* a broken or unventalated system that has artifacts or freezes. Leave it to the M$ repair center to fix your console not yourself, you will void your warrenty with this procedure. If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM.

]]> http://xboxclinic.com/2008/10/thermal-upgradecooling-tutorial-help-keep-those-components-cool/feed/ 0 http://xboxclinic.com/2008/10/xbox-scene-tutorial-open-the-xbox-360-harddrive-v01/ http://xboxclinic.com/2008/10/xbox-scene-tutorial-open-the-xbox-360-harddrive-v01/#comments Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:48:42 +0000 admin http://xboxclinic.com/?p=9 Tutorial written by : XanTium

What you need:
* TORX #6 screwdriver
* TORX #10 screwdriver
* Knowlegde that this will break your warranty

Remove the Xbox360 Harddrive-bay from you console (simply press the button).
On the back you’ll find 4 TORX#6 screws (red circles below) … one of them is behind the microsoft logo-sticker … so opening your harddisk will break your warranty on the Xbox 360 HDD-bay.

Below you see an image of a TORX #6 screwdriver (left) and the HDD-bay with all screws removed (right).

Once the screws are removed, you can remove the top and you’ll get something like shown below.

If you try to remove the top, some (3) parts might fall (the mechanism to lock/unlock the HDD-bay on your Xbox 360 console). Just make sure you don’t lose these parts, if they fall apart the pictures below will show you how to re-assemble it.

4 more screws to remove, this time they a are TORX#10. Remove all 4 screws shown in red circles below.

On the left you see an images of a TORX#10 screw, on the right what you get after removing the 4 screws and taking of the metal casing.

Now unplug the SATA data+power connector like shown below:

You can now slide the hdd out of the HDD-bay. You’ll need to bend the case down or push the HDD upwards so it can pass.

Your Xbox 360 2.5″ harddrive is fully removed.

The Xbox 360 Harddisk is using standard SATA data and power cables, so you can easily connect it to any SATA controller (either on your motherboard (pretty much all new motherboards have SATA these days) or you can also buy a PCI/PCI-E addon card or even an SATA-to-IDE or SATA-to-USB adapter).

For power you’ll need a PC PSU (power supply unit) with SATA power plugs or use a simply conveter that can convert normal PSU connectors to SATA connectors.

Several opening Xbox 360 tutorials are already out there ( link 1 link 2 link 3 link 4).  As always we wait until we have something intelligent to say on a subject before doing up a tutorial.  We have now opened and reassembled many 360’s and will go over the process we use to open  and re-assemble them.  The thing to remember is when you do it right it just pops apart, never pry or you will be very disappointed with the results.

For this tutorial we will be using the XCM 360 Case opening tool

The XCM 360 Case opening tool offers both the torx 10 driver needed to remove the lid and an ingenious metal tab device that allows you to easily release the plastic clips on the back of the 360, and a poker to release the clips holding the top and bottom vent covers.  This tool can be replaced with a small screwdriver, see above external tutorial links for details on that process.

	First things first remove the faceplate.  If you skip this step and go on to removing the top and bottom plates you will find they can be removed but you greatly increase the difficulty and chances of breaking the little tabs off the top and bottom plates.  The easiest way to remove the face is to use the finger hole at the bottom of the console and simply pull forward.  (In this photo the Xbox is upside down)
	Give her a good tug and pop!
	Starting with the gray bottom vent plate, six tabs that hold it into place.  You will find that all of them are accessible from the sides through the vent holes.  Gently pull up on the plate and simultaneously release the clips by pushing in with the opening tool or other tool that fits through the hole.
	Start at the front of the case and work your way back alternating sides so each pair of tabs are released.
	Keep gentle pressure to pull it up and away as you go
	The top plate offers a bit more of a challenge 3 of the six tabs are not in plain sight, begin with the front two, they can be accessed from the two corresponding holes where the drive tray connects.  The opening tool has a cut out so it fits just right to reach the two clips.
	The next two are visible through the vent holes and easily accessible.
	The final tab can be released by removing one of the Xbox feet at the rear to reveal a hole
	With the top and bottom vent covers removed we now lay the xbox down upside down.  This makes the process much easier as the chassis is screwed to the top.  With the bottom shell, (the one with the feet) pointing toward the sky we see these innocent looking 7 little holes.
	This is where the opening tool really comes into play.  When releasing the clips I find it helpful to spread the case with my thumb and forefinger, then position the tool so the tool lines up with the two holes by the power cord.
	Press in on the tool, you should hear crisp clicks as the clips release and the case should pop open a bit.
	Continue to spread the case apart and push in on the vent area, there are a couple more spots where the case connects but these are not clips and do not require the tool.  When you press in nothing too impressive will happen but you may notice that the case spreads slightly further apart.
	Then flip the tool around and line up the 5 tabs with the corresponding holes.  Continue spreading the case apart from the right side and press the tool in.
	You should hear a series of more click clicks and the case is free.  Spread the back apart a couple inches it should be able to rest open while you spin it arround to work on the front
	Begining with the front clip nearest the DVD drive a fingernail will suffice as an opening tool.  A little pressure spreading the lid apart and it should pop right open
	same with the next clips
	and the last
	Lift the lid and ta-da a steel chassis presents itself, in this photo the six screws that need to be removed are circled.  You should be very proud at this point shout to anyone that will listen “I got the thing open!”  Okay now settle down and remove those six screws with a torx 10 driver.
	Flip it back right side up but before yanking the other half of the case off remove the eject button.  Just jamb a fingernail under the right hand side and give a yank it will pop out.  You can wiggle the case around and get it off without removing this but the chance of damage drops to zero if you already took it off.
	Lift the lid and there we go!  This is another good time for shouting to anyone in the room… use your best judgment.
	You should now have a plie of parts that looks something like this.

Here is how you interpret the LEDs to get the code number:

Four lights flashing      = 0
One light flashing     = 1
Two Lights flashing      = 2
Three lights flashing     = 3

1. Turn the xbox 360 on, and wait till the 3 red lights are flashing.
2. Press and HOLD the Sync up button(the small white one) continuosly throughout the entire code.
3. Toggle the eject button on the ODD. The LEDs will now blink the first number in the code.
4. Toggle the eject button on the ODD again. The LEDs will now blink the second number of the code.
5. Toggle the eject button on the ODD again. The LEDs will now blink the third number of the code.
6. Toggle the eject button on the ODD again. The LEDs will now blink the forth number of the code.
7. Toggle the eject button on the ODD again. The LEDs will go back to the 3 red flashing lights.
8. Write your code down!!! It’s easy to forget the sequence.

Here’s the codes in groups:
The 00’s

0000 = Sync Button not press firmly or bad.
0001 = Power supply problem. Swap for a known good PS.
0002 = Network Interface problem
0003 = Power problem checkthe PSU could be the GPU/CPU, No clean power from the power supply.

0010 = over heating
0011 = over heating – Check to see if all 8 of the heatsink screws are tight.
0012 = over heating
0013 = over heating

0020 = Possibly overheating.
0021 = DVD Drive Time out – Problem with a firmware flash or Problem with the SB chipset on the motherboard.
0022 = GPU Error – GPU Overheating or Missing SMD on bottom of mainboard. Also missing GPU entirely (TMF)
0023 = (not yet known)

0030 = (not yet known)
0031 = (not yet known)
0032 = (not yet known)
0033 = (not yet known)

The 01’s

0100 = (not yet known)
0101 = (not yet known)
0102 = Something wrong with the GPU / VRAM or a missing SMD under the board.                                     0103 = CPU Error/ CPU Overheating – see solution for error 0102

0110 = Memory Error / Memory Overheating – see solution for error 0102
0111 = (not yet known)
0112 = (not yet known)
0113 = (not yet known)

0120 = (not yet known)
0121 = (not yet known)
0122 = (not yet known)
0123 = (not yet known)

0130 = (not yet known)
0131 = (not yet known)
0132 = (not yet known)
0133 = (not yet known)

The 02’s

0200 = (not yet known)
0201 = (not yet known)
0202 = (not yet known)
0203 = (not yet known)

0210 = (not yet known)
0211 = (not yet known)
0212 = (not yet known)
0213 = (not yet known)

0220 = (not yet known)
0221 = (not yet known)
0222 = (not yet known)
0223 = (not yet known)

0230 = (not yet known)
0231 = (not yet known)
0232 = (not yet known)
0233 = (not yet known)

The 03’s

0300 = (not yet known)
0301 = (not yet known)
0302 = (not yet known)
0303 = (not yet known)

0310 = (not yet known)
0311 = (not yet known)
0312 = (not yet known)
0313 = (not yet known)

0320 = (not yet known)
0321 = (not yet known)
0322 = (not yet known)
0323 = (not yet known)

0330 = (not yet known)
0331 = (not yet known)
0332 = (not yet known)
0333 = (not yet known)

The 10’s

1000 = (not yet known)
1001 = (not yet known)
1002 = (not yet known)
1003 = Hard Drive Error or Bad Hard Drive itself or internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing it.

1010 = Hard Drive Error, Can be caused buy a corrupt or missing eProm.
1011 = (not yet known)
1012 = (not yet known)
1013 = (not yet known) possibly a dashboard update error

1020 = (not yet known)
1021 = (not yet known)
1022 = AV cable error… Try a different AV cable. Also check switch setting. (Could be encoder chip)
1023 = DVD drive not connected, connect DVD drive to boot

1030 = (not yet known)
1031 = (not yet known)
1032 = (not yet known)
1033 = (not yet known)

The 11’s

1100 = (not yet known)
1101 = (not yet known)
1102 = (not yet known)
1103 = (not yet known)

1110 = (not yet known)
1111 = (not yet known)
1112 = (not yet known)
1113 = (not yet known)

1120 = (not yet known)
1121 = (not yet known)
1122 = (not yet known)
1123 = (not yet known)

1130 = (not yet known)
1131 = (not yet known)
1132 = (not yet known)
1133 = (not yet known)

The 12’s

1200 = (not yet known)
1201 = (not yet known)
1202 = (not yet known)
1203 = (not yet known)

1210 = (not yet known)
1211 = (not yet known)
1212 = (not yet known)
1213 = (not yet known)

1220 = (not yet known)
1221 = (not yet known)
1222 = (not yet known)
1223 = (not yet known)

1230 = (not yet known)
1231 = (not yet known)
1232 = (not yet known)
1233 = (not yet known)

The 13’s

1300 = (not yet known)
1301 = (not yet known)
1302 = (not yet known)
1303 = (not yet known)

1310 = (not yet known)
1311 = (not yet known)
1312 = (not yet known)
1313 = (not yet known)

1320 = (not yet known)
1321 = (not yet known)
1322 = (not yet known)
1323 = (not yet known)

1330 = (not yet known)
1331 = (not yet known)
1332 = (not yet known)
1333 = (not yet known)

1444 and up There is no “4″ in the error codes four lights is a “0″ go back and check your code again.

2000 to 3333 haven’t seen any yet.

There’s a lot missing and they need to be figured out. If you know any of the (not yet known) please post.

I will update later to correct any I find.

There’s also some work being done on the SMC that may yield all these codes exactly. Hopefully.

Credits go to llamma.com and all the hackers here at XBH fourms.